Passage of the Pharaohs – Pharaoh Lake via Crane Pond

By Bill Ingersoll

For many people familiar with the Adirondack wilderness, Pharaoh Lake hardly requires any introduction from me. This 441-acre pond lies at the heart of its namesake wilderness area, and it is the home of six lean-tos and an uncounted number of primitive campsites. The lake is approached by trails from nearly every compass direction, and some of them are quite well known.

Most people approach Pharaoh Lake via the most direct route from the southwest, which is serviced by a trailhead near Brant Lake. The next-most-popular trail begins at Putnam Pond and passes Grizzle Ocean. I have enjoyed each of these routes multiple times over the years.

However, the route I am recommending here is the less-traveled approach from the northwest, from the vicinity of Schroon Lake. This trail begins at Crane Pond and ends at Pharaoh Lake, but somewhere between these popular destinations it enjoys a few miles of rugged quietness. And when you do reach the shore of Pharaoh Lake, it is near a cluster of remote campsites that are somewhat less frequently used than those clustered at the south end of the lake.

The connecting trails also suggest side explorations for those who are curious to see more. And if you feel truly strong and ambitious, you could turn this out-and-back hike into a loop by combining a trip to Pharaoh Lake with the parallel traverse over Pharaoh Mountain.

Getting There – The trailhead is located on Crane Pond Road, east of Schroon Lake. From Exit 28 on I-87, turn south on US Route 9 and continue for about 0.6-mile. Here, turn left onto Alder Meadow Road, which crosses the Schroon River and leads east through a residential area. After passing through the scenic wetlands flanking Alder Creek, watch for a fork 2.1 miles from the highway. Crane Pond Road bears left here and leads the final 1.4 miles to the official state trailhead for Crane Pond.

You will probably observe, however, that the road continues into state land without the usual yellow barricade to prevent vehicle access. Officially, the remaining portion of Crane Pond Road is closed and not maintained by any government agency, but in reality, it is still used by high-clearance four-wheel-drive trucks. Most vehicles, though, are outclassed by the sheer ruggedness of the road, with some of the worst washouts (as of 2024) found within the first mile. Therefore, for most of us, the best option is to park where the town road ends and walk the rest of the way.

The Trail – The first 1.9 miles of this hike to Pharaoh Lake begins on the unmaintained segment of Crane Pond Road, between the official parking area and the place where the trucks park near the west end of Crane Pond. The idea of hiking a road as part of a wilderness adventure might sound contradictory, and not everyone will savor the experience, but the route does enjoy plenty of foot traffic and it is not entirely unenjoyable.

Your hike begins parallel to a rugged section of Alder Creek, which is here adorned by rocky gorges and cascades. After crossing the brook, you reach the side trail to Goose Pond at 0.8-mile. The road is relentlessly bumpy as it continues eastward, parallel to Alder Pond and sometimes within view of it. At about 1.5 miles the road gets uncomfortably close to the vast wetlands surrounding the pond and even cuts through a corner of them; a bed of gravel provides an easy ford for both hikers and drivers through most of the summer.

At 1.9 miles you reach the interior parking area near Crane Pond that only the trucks can reach. There is a campsite and canoe launch nearby, but the views of Crane are limited without venturing farther out along the shore.

Look for the hiking trail that leads south from the parking area, crossing the pond’s outlet on a substantial footbridge. This, too, was once a road, but its quality is worlds apart from what you’ve just experienced. The trail gradually climbs through hemlock-rich forests to a junction at 2.6 miles (0.7 from Crane Pond) where the hiking trail to Pharaoh Mountain bears right. A few minutes later, at three miles, you reach the turnoff for Oxshoe Pond at a scenic junction beside Glidden Marsh.

The pond-like north end of Glidden Marsh is one of the joys of this adventure. The trail hugs the shoreline and provides several photographic vantages. A brief interlude through the woods brings you to the south end of the marsh, which is indeed more wetland than pond – but still scenic, nonetheless.

After crossing the outlet of Crab Pond, the trail climbs to yet another trail junction at 3.7 miles; a left turn here would lead to Crab Pond. Trail signs refer to this spot as “Hay Marsh Junction,” after a wetland that lies off-trail to the northeast. The trail to Pharaoh Lake continues straight ahead.

By this point the trail has already shed its road-based origins and narrowed into a rugged foot tread, but what follows is the remotest section of the route. The distance between Hay Marsh and Pharaoh Lake is only 1.6 miles, but it will seem substantially longer. From an elevation of about 1,200 feet, the trail gradually climbs to 1,460 feet as it keeps to high ground above a chain of wetlands occupying a notch between Pharaoh and Treadway Mountains. A zigzag between two of the wetlands leads to a short level section, and then comes the 0.3-mile, 300-foot plunge down to Pharaoh Lake’s northwest corner.

At 5.3 miles, you reach a junction with the loop trail that encircles the lake. There are three designated campsites in this vicinity, including one tiny “solo” campsite to the left and two more substantial sites to the right, each at the tip of its own small peninsula. Be sure to look for the yellow markers leading off the main route to each of these campsites, which all boast fine views of this large lake. If a lean-to is more your style, the nearest option is found on the far side of Split Rock Bay; upon reaching the around-the-lake trail, bear left and continue for an additional 0.5-mile to the prominent shelter.

The drawback to this route is that when the time comes to pull up your tent stakes and return to Crane Pond Road, your day will begin with that 0.3-mile, 300-foot climb back into the notch, with almost no preliminary. But then the long descent toward Hay Marsh and Glidden Marsh will improve your outlook, and the final 1.9 miles along the abandoned road will breeze right by.

Bill Ingersoll is a cofounder and vice-chair of Adirondack Wilderness Advocates: adirondackwilderness.org. He is the author of the recently published guidebook, Wilderness Camping in the Adirondacks: 25 Backpacking and Canoeing Overnight Adventures, which features relatively easy outings, and you can buy it from a local outfitter, bookstore and online.