The Hudson River - for All Paddlers

By Rich Macha

The Hudson River, over its length of 315 miles, has something to offer all types of paddlers. Originating in the High Peaks of the Adirondack Park, the river makes its way south, goes through several transitions, and eventually spills out into the Atlantic Ocean at New York Harbor.

The named Hudson River starts out as the outlet of Henderson Lake. It is a rocky mountain stream for a while before it widens into Sanford Lake. Paddlers can put-in from County Route 76 and enjoy some mountain views. The Opalescent River enters below the lake and adds to the flow. You can paddle downstream for a while longer before reaching a long section of rapids.

The next section of flatwater can be accessed via the shallow outlet of Lake Harris. A sign at the river offers the option of going upstream to Mount Marcy or downstream to New York City – it is worth going in both directions. Upstream through intimate wooded shores to the bottom of a set of rapids and downstream to a more open river with some marshy shores. Note that there is a little quickwater with some rocks to avoid when going under the NY Route 28N bridge. Below the bridge, there is an extensive marshy area that can be explored when the water level is high enough. A bit further downstream, you reach the top of Long Falls Rapids. Flatwater paddlers should turn around here and enjoy High Peaks views before returning to the start at the boat launch on Lake Harris Road.

The next 50 miles, much of the Hudson through a wilderness of great scenic beauty, is mostly for the whitewater enthusiast. The three-mile-long Blackwell Stillwater on both sides of the Polaris/Iron Bridge is the only lengthy stretch of flatwater; there is a 0.3-mile carry to get to the bridge. Rafting trips start on the Indian River and soon enter the Hudson, then pass through the Hudson Gorge over exciting rapids that approach Class 4. Class 2 and 3 whitewater continues past North Creek, Riparius and The Glen, before mellowing out somewhat at Thurman Station – and the confluence with the Schroon River.

The next 14-mile section to Hadley consists of quickwater and is suitable for competent novice paddlers – there is too much current to paddle upstream so a shuttle is desired. The undeveloped left shore is in the Hudson River Special Management Area, where there are hiking trails, campsites, and a dirt access road. In warmer weather, tubers are common over the second half of this stretch. Make sure you know exactly where the take-out is located because, not far downstream, is Rockwell Falls which is best viewed from land or from below. The Sacandaga River, a popular whitewater river, enters below the falls. From here to Troy, the character of the Hudson is mostly influenced by dams.

One of the nicest sections between dams occurs above and below the Spier Falls Dam, as the river cuts through the Palmertown Range at the north end of Moreau Lake State Park. There are boat launches on both sections.

The river from Fort Edward to Schuylerville to Mechanicville is relatively scenic with places of historic interest off the water. Due to several dams, you may have to go through the Champlain Canal locks. South to Troy and Albany is nice despite more civilization and road noise. The Waterford Harbor and Peebles Island State Park, at the confluence of the Mohawk and Hudson rivers, are of great interest and I always enjoy paddling that area.

Below the Federal Lock and Dam at Troy, the river is tidal, despite being about 153 miles away from the ocean. The Mohican name for the river, muh-he-kun-ne-tuk, means “the river that flows both ways.” The difference in high and low tides can be as much as 5.5 feet. Low tide reveals sandy beaches in some spots which can be used for lunch breaks or rest spots. The current flows downstream for about seven hours and upstream for about five hours, so it is best to plan your paddling trip to accommodate this flow. This tidal estuary is of great ecological interest and significance, and it retains some of its wild character in many places.

South of Albany, there are marshy areas to explore such as Tivoli Bays, Constitution Marsh, as well as the East and West Flats – between the communities of Coxsackie, Stockport, Hudson and Athens. Some tributaries, such as the Papscanee, Esopus and Catskill creeks, can be paddled up for a change of pace. Barges and ocean-going ships can be encountered, especially close to high tide. Their wakes are often not as big as you may think and any resultant waves are more easily handled by staying away from shallow water where the waves may break like surf at the ocean.

There are views of the Catskill Mountains, and several unique lighthouses along the Hudson, which can be observed from the water. The Saugerties Lighthouse at the mouth of the Esopus Creek, even has a resident male harbor seal that has spent over a year in the area – 113 miles from the open sea. Bald eagles can be seen in most areas along the river but are especially abundant in the tidal reaches. Small groups of mute swans are often observed; the white adults can sometimes be seen with young grey-colored cygnets.

With fall foliage season approaching, the Upper Hudson River will be showing its best in late September and early October, while the Lower Hudson will be at its showiest in late October. To get the most out of your paddling adventures, I highly recommend getting a guidebook for whatever section that you plan to paddle.

Adirondack Paddling: 65 Great Flatwater Adventures by Phil Brown – This is a great up-to-date collection of mostly day paddling destinations – not that you couldn’t overnight it on many of these trips – into the wilder areas of the Adirondacks. Color photographs add to this book’s appeal and to the appeal of the waterways included here. The book has a nice blend of stream and lake paddling, featuring old favorites, as well as newly-accessible areas like the Opalescent River.

Adirondack Mountain Club Canoe and Kayak Guide East-Central New York State edited by Kathie Armstrong and Chet Harvey – While this guidebook includes flatwater trips on streams and rivers, it also has a fair amount of whitewater in it making it a must-have for the river-running paddler. Much of the Hudson River from Newcomb to Troy is described here, as well as the easy whitewater of popular streams like the Batten Kill.

A Kayaker’s Guide to New York’s Capital Region by Russell Dunn – This book covers in detail, the Mohawk River from Amsterdam to Waterford, and the Hudson River from Mechanicville to Catskill. You can be sure that Russell Dunn will offer historical background and interesting tidbits in his books and this one is no different.

New York State Canalway Water Trail Guidebook and Map Set by Erie Canalway National Heritage Corridor – This mile-by-mile guide features launch sites, paddler-friendly facilities, and places of interest for 450 miles of the canal system, including the Champlain Canal. The set of four maps are tear-resistant and waterproof. Go to: eriecanalway.org/watertrail.

Hudson River Water Trail Guide by Ian Giddy – Revised by the Hudson River Watertrail Association. The seventh edition is now available and is by far the best guide to the tidal Hudson River from Troy to New York City. Boat launching areas, campsites, historical sites, and natural areas of interest are covered. Black and white charts for every section help in navigating New York’s most famous river.  Find it here: hrwa.org.

A Kayaker’s Guide to the Hudson River Valley by Sheri Aber – This guide covers the smaller and quieter waters of the valley, on either side of the Hudson River, from Kinderhook south to Beacon.

A lover of wild places, Rich Macha has led many trips for the Adirondack Mountain Club, and has spent 20 years in the paddlesport/snowsport business. More of Rich’s adventures can be found at northeastwild.blogspot.com.