Essex Chain & Santanoni

Gems of Adirondack Backcountry Riding

By Dave Kraus

It’s been a long, hot summer, especially if you’ve been covering your face and socially distancing. So, grab your gravel, mountain or other wide tire bike, and head to Essex Chain Lakes just outside of Newcomb. Out in the forest you won’t have to mask your face, or your enthusiasm, once you’ve seen this gem of Adirondack backcountry riding.

Situated about five miles south of Newcomb via Goodnow Flow Road, the Essex Lakes complex includes almost 20,000 acres of forest, lakes, streams, and primitive roads left over from the days when the area was logged by Finch Pruyn paper company. Today the logging roads provide access to this area that offers superb cycling, paddling, hiking and camping opportunities. While the area has been open to the public for almost seven years, it generally receives light usage and only on weekends is it likely you will run into other cyclists.

To reach the Essex Chain and this 23-mile loop, take Pine Tree Road off of NY Route 28N, then go south on Goodnow Flow Road, and turn left when you reach the lake. Look for the small unpaved parking area for the Upper Hudson Ski Trail on the left. If you cross the bridge below the dam, you’ve gone too far.

Now on your bike, continue on Goodnow Flow Road past the dam, and then a left turn onto Gooley Club Road – past the DEC signpost – puts you in the forest and on the road to adventure. To keep you on the right path, make sure to download and print a cue sheet and map at ridewithgps.com/routes/33948822. Logging operations have led to a complicated network of access roads in this area, creating opportunities ripe for exploring – or getting totally lost. As you continue on your ride, be quiet and watchful for the varied wildlife in the area, which can include deer, bears and moose.

At mile 4.7 from the start, you will reach a major intersection where a left turn will put you on the road to the former Gooley Club camp, on the shore of Third Lake. A mile later, watch for the small spur road on the right that will take you to the camp location, with its spectacular view across the lake. The buildings of the 150-year-old club were removed in 2018 as part of the state’s acquisition of the area from the Nature Conservancy, which had purchased it from Finch Pruyn.

Continuing southward again on the main road, you’ll encounter the Cedar River as it flows placidly eastward toward the Hudson River. A few miles farther through forest, along the riverbank and past mild rapids, you will reach the end of the road on the bank of the river. The road continues on the other side of the river, toward the hamlet of Indian Lake, and there has been talk of putting a bridge here. But for now, you will need to turn around and head back the way you came.

On your return ride, turn left just before mile 14 to continue on the loop to the causeway, between Fourth and Fifth lakes with its beautiful views in either direction. A large culvert provides access for paddlers between the two lakes. There’s also a handicapped accessible campsite on the far end of the causeway.

From here, it’s not far until the turn toward the Deer Pond parking lot, where vehicle access begins on this segment that will complete your loop ride. Don’t forget to get a photo of you and/or your bike with the slowly rusting logging truck that serves as a gatepost at the entrance to the parking area. Each year it rusts just a bit more, and eventually will be gone. The road is easier to follow from now on, and eventually it turns into the paved Woody’s Road that will lead you back to your car, past the many camp cabins along the shore of private Goodnow Flow lake.

Remember when you ride in Essex Chain Lakes:

• These are primitive roads that receive minimal maintenance. Watch for washouts and embedded “baby head” rocks that can lead to a crash.

• Please respect all posted private property. Do not park along Woody’s Road, as it is all private.

• Electric assisted bicycles (ebikes) are prohibited on any DEC administered trail or road that is not open to motorized vehicles. Also watch for other signs on some roads in the preserve that are closed to all bicycles.

• This area is remote and cell coverage is often non-existent. Make sure to take food, water, and tools to repair flat tires, etc.

Add Great Camp Santanoni

Haven’t had enough yet? Then you can easily add ten more miles to your gravel day by riding the five-mile unpaved road from Newcomb out to the former Great Camp Santanoni. The entrance can be reached on Newcomb Lake Road, which is almost directly across the highway from Pine Tree Road that leads to Goodnow Flow.

This National Historic Landmark was created in the late 19th and early 20th centuries by Robert and Anna Pruyn, serving as a place to entertain guests and find refuge from city life. Robert Pruyn, an Albany banker and business tycoon, used the camp as his personal retreat in the Adirondacks.

The main camp complex and 15,000-square-foot lodge is on the shore of Newcomb Lake and also includes the stone Artist’s Studio, boat house, and several smaller structures, many of which are open to the public. As you ride in, you will pass other buildings including a stone gate lodge, boat house, and farm and dairy barns – most made from native stone or lumber. Enjoy!

Dave Kraus (dbkraus@earthlink.net) is a longtime area cyclist, photographer, and writer who is always looking for new, interesting routes to experience the outdoors in upstate New York. Visit his website at KrausGrafik.com.