Rethinking Balm of Gilead Mountain

By Bill Ingersoll

Sometimes the small mountains are the best hiking experiences. I keep a list of them in my metaphorical “back pocket” to recommend for people who want a memorable experience for modest effort. There are many such mountains scattered throughout the Adirondack Park, although many are bushwhacks; in my opinion the region would benefit if a few more of these “low peaks” had trails.

One of my favorite such mountains is Balm of Gilead in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness near North Creek. It is a tad out of the way, and unlike most of the park’s more famous climbs you can’t just park at the base and begin climbing – you must walk for a few minutes before the ascent begins. But this is hardly a technical hike, and if you can manage a few minor navigational quirks (finding the trailhead, following the trail signs) then you’ll have it made.

Balm of Gilead Mountain’s unique name doesn’t refer to a Margaret Atwood dystopian novel. Instead, it stems from a sterile variety of the balsam poplar, the Balm of Gilead tree. The ends of its branches are gummy and give off a spicy fragrance in spring. In the 19th century, the pungent odor from trees growing on this mountain was noticed as far away as Christian Hill, thus inspiring the mountain’s name.

The mountain is small and mostly well-forested, but one ledge offers an outstanding vista that encompasses the heart of the Siamese Ponds Wilderness. To me, it is almost as satisfying to stand here on the edge of that wilderness, gazing into the depths of its interior from the top of Balm of Gilead, as it is to backpack through that remote area.

Getting There

The key to finding this adventure is Thirteenth Lake Road, which starts at a well-signed intersection with NY Route 28 in North River and begins to climb as soon as it crosses the railroad tracks. It traces a winding course through the hamlet of Christian Hill and alongside Thirteenth Brook. At 3.3 miles you reach a junction with Beach Road, the gravel spur that branches right, leading to yet another popular trailhead.

Bear left at this fork and continue uphill, following the signs for Garnet Hill Lodge. Look for Old Farm Road, a small lane that forks right from Thirteenth Lake Road, four miles from North River. Follow this narrow road into state land and the official trailhead parking area at 0.7 mile.

The Trail

The wide trail leading into the Siamese Ponds Wilderness begins with a gentle grade that most hikers will barely notice. At 0.2 mile you reach the trail register and the northern junction with the Botheration Pond Loop, which turns left and follows a narrow, blue-marked foot trail cut 20 years ago along the foot of Balm of Gilead Mountain. At 0.9 mile you reach the yellow-marked side trail to its summit,

Once you find this trail junction, the ascent begins right away. It should take no more than 15 to 20 minutes to climb through the hardwoods to the summit ridge, where a short traverse through the conifers brings you to the ledge. The view is incredible! Nearly all of Thirteenth Lake spreads out before you like a wedge driven into the mountainous wilderness beyond. Peaked Mountain looms over its neighbors to the northwest, and Puffer and Bullhead mountains preside like sentinels over the wilderness core. Old Farm Clearing is easily identifiable in the foreground by virtue of its Norway spruce plantation, the dark green trees contrasting sharply with the lighter green of the prevailing hardwoods. Because the ledge faces southwest, the best photographic opportunities are in the morning.

If there are any Balm of Gilead trees remaining on Balm of Gilead Mountain, none are evident from the trail.

Reassessing Balm of Gilead

And so goes my normal assessment of this hike, which I have always regarded as an easy adventure with an outsized payoff. However, I recently had the opportunity to revisit Balm of Gilead Mountain with family visiting from out of state, more accustomed to hiking in municipal parks with graded trails, so I got to experience this hike through new eyes.

First, the trail along the lower part of the mountain is muddy. Having known a place for so long, the memories tend to blur together, and I still tend to regard this section of trail as new, since I was there soon after it opened to the public. At the time it was a humble footpath hacked through the woods, with simple log bridges to span the handful of wet areas.

But that was 2004, and now two decades have passed, and I guess I should no longer think of this trail as “new.” Some of my companions were put off by the frequent patches of mud, and whereas I might just step right through in my expensive hiking boots, some of these were puzzles that took a minute to crack.

Not that either experience was incorrect; again, I was being taught to see a familiar place as though for the first time.

Likewise, the final climb up the mountain took a bit more than “15 to 20 minutes,” especially when one among us was on the hunt for toads and efts and other interesting finds.

Nevertheless, the summit was exactly as promised, with the added benefit of having it to ourselves despite the fact we had come on a major holiday. As the experienced hiker in the family, my priority was to find a hike that was both appropriate and unique; anyone can follow the crowds on Independence Day, but only the connoisseurs can find the quieter corners of the woods and still enjoy the stunning vistas. In that regard, I think Uncle Bill was successful.

Bill Ingersoll is a cofounder and vice-chair of Adirondack Wilderness Advocates: adirondackwilderness.org. He is the author of the recently published guidebook, Wilderness Camping in the Adirondacks: 25 Backpacking and Canoeing Overnight Adventures, which features relatively easy outings, and you can buy it from a local outfitter, bookstore and online.