Appalachian Trail Hike for SkyHigh Adventure Center

 By John Slyer

The Dream – Just like every kid has some far-fetched ideas, as a kiddo I had plans for lots of crazy big adventures. Flying a cardboard airplane with my brother Charlie and jumping fire on bikes like Evel Knievel with my brother George were just the beginning. I was lucky to grow up free-range with parents who gave me freedom and the courage to take risks. We regularly did 20+ miles on our bikes and skateboards and even started skydiving in high school. Our childhood was filled with sky high adventures.

In 1974 I went on a weekend backpacking trip with Camp Scully to Little Rock Pond in the Green Mountains of Vermont. We backpacked to a shelter on the Appalachian Trail where our counselors gave us time to follow a stream, scrambling up and down the rocks. I tripped while rock-hopping doing a swan dive into three inches of water, hence my Appalachian Trail name, Diving Swan!

I didn’t know much about the AT until we met a thru-hiker on their way to Maine. The distance seemed impossible but thought I could do the AT someday.  

The Planning – AT planning started when I was a young man. I enrolled in mountaineering, winter backpacking, survival skills, EMT and rescue classes. I joined organizations with lots of like-minded folks.

The AT would be the thing I’d do when I retired, until the pandemic hit and the trail was officially closed in 2020. I put off my hike and invested time creating a not-for-profit, Sky High Adventure Center (SHAC Center) in Averill Park. The SHAC has a mission to help others be healthy, active and engaged. I would head out on the AT in 2023 and take a break from the SHAC. Little did I know how hard it would be to be away and that SHAC would become my motivation to get through the hard parts.

During the pandemic, I prepped by doing research on gear, navigation, hostels, history, challenges, and highlights of the legendary Appalachian Trail. I knew I was going to start heavy and unload stuff along the way. 

I got my backpack weight down to 22 pounds, but with a full five days of food and three liters of water, I would get up to almost 40 pounds. Getting off-trail in some areas is not easy; I chose to carry more food than others and it worked well for me. The biggest impact of carrying lots of food was that I would not be able to trail run as much when I was completely resupplied.  

As my start date approached, the final plans were set. My wife, Kathy (aka Sunshine), would hike with me up Springer Mountain, Georgia on February 25. Springer is the southernmost terminus of the AT and it’s where most thru-hikers start for a northbound (NOBO) hike. I would get off-trail at Harpers Ferry, W.Va. in late May and flip-flop my hike. Flip-flopping would allow me to hike NOBO so I could get off- and on-trail for family, SKYHIGH Adventure Camp and Kids Triathlon, and to compete at Ironman triathlons in Texas, Lake Placid and Western Massachusetts, along with the Bar Harbor Marathon. During my time home I would also tackle most of Massachusetts. At the end of July, I would then flip up north to Mount Katahdin in Maine, and return to the trail SOBO where I would finish the Appalachian Trail at Harpers Ferry on October 15. That was the plan. 

The Start(s) – I love the feeling of excitement that I get before doing something hard and scary. I was excited to meet new people, and see new places, not to mention the thrill of trying to do something that has a 75% rate of failure. What’s so scary about hiking in the woods or up some mountains? I’ll be doing it with others, at least when I start. Will the others be cool, will they be know-it-all gear junkies, or will there be people like me trying to do something hard that they have dreamed of for years? I met them all. I was excited to push myself without knowing just how far I would get pushed physically and emotionally.

My NOBO start with Sunshine went well and I found that the NOBO portion of the trip went quickly. There were lots of thru-hikers and the excitement of the hike kept us all positive. There was rain, snow, ice, very cold weather, and wind that could blow you over – and yet it was a thrill. Making the first 100, 200 and 500 miles was also thrill that was celebrated with a trail family. The last miles of the AT would be celebrated alone in solitude and with some loneliness.

After completing the southern half of the AT, Sunshine and I hiked up the northernmost terminus, Mount Katahdin on July 31. Katahdin is probably one of the hardest climbs on the trail and the weather made it even harder. We hiked up the AT Hunt Trail in cool rain and fog, and came down the Abol Trail with sleet, adding a super-steep descent to our already challenging day. The next day I said goodbye to Kathy, and headed into the 100-Mile Wilderness, where I would be out of touch for up to eight days.  

The Trail – The AT is the best marked trail I’ve ever been on. There are incredible views and scary exposed places in all 14 states. My favorites were Clingmans Dome in North Carolina, Mount Lafayette in New Hampshire, and McAfee Knob on Catawba Mountain in Virginia, and lots of great lakes, rivers and streams. It’s got miles and miles of fast smooth terrain, and it also has some stuff that is crazy steep, and needs to be climbed up and down with care. I had some places where I could run for five miles and others where I was lucky to go one-mile per hour. It was fantastic when I would climb for what seemed like hours, and then find that the top of the mountain had incredible views. I also had times with snow and ice, no view, and poor trail conditions. They did not put the modern AT on easy terrain.

The People – The people were the best part of the AT. We were on-trail for our own reasons and we had different paths in life that led us to the trail. We were all moving with one goal in mind, to thru-hike the AT. We shared the dream of a big physical and mental/emotional challenge, and of seeing the legendary views of the Appalachians. Real bonds form faster on the trail than I anticipated. My trail family, especially Pacer and Swiss, will be part of me forever.

I met thousands of people, especially when NOBO. There were retirees, high school and college grads, people between jobs, and those recovering from hard stuff. I felt very safe and found that we were willing to help each other with food, supplies, phone charges and toilet paper. As they say on the trail, the trail provides. “Trail Angels” are those who do special acts of kindness on the trail. It might be food at a road crossing, a ride into town for resupply or a cooler with beer, water and snacks at a trailhead.  

“Hiker hunger” is a term used for the level of insane hunger hikers feel as they push themselves day after day. I had to take in 5,000+ calories daily just to maintain my energy and not lose too much weight. Water filtration and hydrating with electrolyte drinks is also important. I was usually going through three-to-six liters a day, not including the water in my breakfast and dinner.

The hostels were one of the best parts of the trail. Trail towns usually have a few hostels where you can rest, shower, eat and resupply. They are in sheds, old garages, nice lodges and the homes of trail angels. Each hostel has its own vibe and character. I met folks who have been doing it for decades and others who are just starting out.

The Joys and Beauty – I loved the people! When I started, I found that we were all bonded by our anxiety and excitement. The bonds formed during the first several weeks would be lifelong.

My trail family formed quickly. We would share our stories, dreams, fears and histories, and we would laugh, joke and rejoice as we climbed mountains, passed our first 100 miles, and took care of each other when we were injured, hungry and cold. Even when we parted ways, we’d stay connected and support each other. I was also very lucky to have an old friend, Billy, meet me at Harpers Ferry both times, and celebrate the halfway and finish with me.

The Hard Parts and Unexpected – The difficult parts are many and began before I even got on the trail. I knew it would be difficult to say goodbye to my wife, and it was. We were celebrating our 29th anniversary with friends just before starting and then I got Covid. I had to isolate myself from everyone until the night prior to starting in Georgia. I have a better idea now what it means that, “absence makes the heart grow fonder,” as my grandfather said about how he missed my grandmother when he was away during WWII.  

Hard and wonderful things happen when you least expect them. I was lucky enough to get a call from my daughter when she matched for residency and then again when she and her partner got engaged. Unexpectedly, I learned that our Aunt Julie passed away. I got off trail to be with family to mourn and celebrate her life. While off-trail I was lucky enough to surprise my middle daughter when she arrived stateside from Army deployment. At one low point I had to confess to my daughter Ruby that I was not sure I would be able to finish the thru-hike.

In terms of physical challenge, some of the hardest hiking I did was in Maine. After being off-trail for the summer, I started my southbound (SOBO) flip at Mount Katahdin. The weather was tough from the start. We had rain and sleet on top, and the Hundred Mile Wilderness and the rest of Maine, would prove to be very challenging and wet. The rain and muddy bogs kept my feet wet for weeks and I struggled to dry my socks, shoes and feet. Eventually I had to get off-trail due to “trench foot,” which is very painful and makes it hard to walk, and can escalate into an infection that can do permanent damage. I tried to take two days off to heal, but then reluctantly decided to get off-trail, and thought my hike might be over. I had to admit to myself that I might not finish my thru-hike. I was so sad and dejected and now knew what post-hike depression was about. 

I spent the next week healing and finally went for a trial overnight trip with my daughter, Caroline. We had a great trip with just a bit of rain. Thanks to Kathy for driving me, I was back in Maine the following weekend heading south again.

The rest of Maine was challenging, but I had almost a full week without rain, and my self-doubt was fading. I would continue to be challenged by big mountains and cold weather through New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts and beyond. I met very few SOBOs and hiked alone for the rest of the hike, which was tough. I love people and this was my longest time completely alone in my entire life. I got so caught up being alone that I began to count the white blaze trail markers. I’d give myself prizes, call family, eat Sour Patch Kids, look at my watch for each 10, 50, 100 blazes. I did this for days until I got to 750 blazes in one day and I finally quit playing my mental game of Pac-Man.

There were times when I wondered if I was crazy, and it got really hard to stay motivated when I was alone. Going up mountains, racing the sun to get to shelters to heat up water for dehydrated food, and sleeping alone in the cold was difficult. I am so glad that I made the hike about something more than my own dream. A few weeks before starting, I decided to raise money for the SkyHigh Adventure Center. The Sand Lake Kiwanis and Sand Lake Seniors made the initial $6,000 in pledges and donations before I even started. As I hiked, the donations kept coming in and we surpassed our goal of $22,000 before the end of 2023. Thank you to all of the donors. I’m not sure I would have finished if it had not been for them. 

The Packing List – backpack, trekking poles, rain gear, shoes, hiking clothes, camp clothes, hydration, filter, food for trail and dinner, stove, spoon, cup, tent, communication, phone and battery chargers, earbuds, and first aid stuff.

The Long-Term Impact – What I was not prepared for was the level of joy and positivity that has filled my heart, body and soul since finishing the AT. Early on the thru-hike, I read about how post-hike depression impacts many folks when they finish the trail, or are forced off due to injury or other challenges. I took note of the warnings and thought about what I would do when I got off-trail. I have survived and recovered from depression many times and I know how hard it can be. I have also survived post-race depression after training and racing marathons, Ironman and other ultra distance events. It’s not fun. I hoped that my post-hike plans would help me avoid the negative impact. 

I knew that I’d be challenged and put my mind to what I’d be doing when I got off-trail. I would spend time with family and friends, get on my bike, do presentations about the trail, and continue to build the SHAC Community Center. What I did not expect was to feel so incredibly positive, grateful and invigorated, that I now get up early every morning and reflect on all the wonderful things that make my life incredible. I have found that my appreciation of all the good things in life has infinitely multiplied. My wife, kids, community and close friends, as well as all the comforts of our modern world are incredible things that I am lucky to enjoy and share. It’s been three months since I finished the Appalachian Trail’s 2198.4-mile trek. I feel more alive, productive, compassionate and filled with love and joy than ever – life truly is awesome! 

John Slyer (skyhighadventures@gmail.com) is a multisport athlete, triathlon coach, 20-time Ironman finisher, founder/president of SKYHIGH Adventures, and the non-profit SkyHigh Adventure Center. He is the proud father of three girls and happily married to his Sunshine, Kathy Mulligan-Slyer.