April 2023 / HIKING & BACKPACKING
Big Pond, Jones Hill and More
By Bill Ingersoll
The Hoffman Notch Wilderness is a perfect example of how true wildness can sometimes be hidden in plain sight. Although it directly abuts an interstate highway, and although its size is rather middling, solitude and natural beauty abound. In other words, Hoffman Notch is Adirondack wilderness at its best – despite its accessibility.
Many people have seen this wilderness, whether they are aware of it or not – but few can say they know the landscape on an intimate basis. Ever since I-87 (known as the Adirondack Northway) opened in 1967, the Blue Ridge Range has been adorning roadside vistas for thousands of drivers every day. It is a place that seems so close to “civilization” that it can hardly be considered remote, by any standard.
Indeed, several of its most popular destinations are barely a mile from the starting point, and the area’s most iconic scenery can be consumed with minimal effort. This makes Hoffman Notch somewhat “inside-out” compared to most of the other protected areas in the Adirondacks, which hold their best scenic secrets deep within their boundaries. It also might partially explain why an area so accessible is so little known to the general public, aside from these few peripheral treasures.
The state-maintained trail network in this wilderness is somewhat limited, but adequate given the level of interest. The marked trails to Bailey Pond, Big Pond, and Severance Hill are all short and easy – and therefore well used. The longer trail past Big Marsh within Hoffman Notch is only moderately used, and the trail between Big Pond and Trout Brook sees hardly any foot traffic at all.
Limited though it may be, the Hoffman Notch Wilderness trail system will soon expand. A new trail over Jones Hill is already partly constructed (as of 2023); this will eventually create a through-route from Big Pond to Dirgylot Hill, by way of North Pond and Platt Brook. Jones Hill is likely the place from which the famous 19th century American artist Thomas Cole sketched Hoffman Mountain in 1838, and its view remains first-rate.
And this new trail will likely become part of the North Country National Scenic Trail, which is slated to pass through the southern part of the wilderness.
Until that trail is opened – I’ve already previewed it, and it will be a stunner – Big Pond remains an excellent introduction to the Hoffman Notch area. This article describes the main trail, but with a little bit of outdoor sleuthing experienced explorers can tack on some excellent side trips.
Getting There
This entrance to the Hoffman Notch Wilderness is located just a few miles west of Schroon Lake. From Northway (I-87) Exit 28, drive south on US Route 9 through the village to Hoffman Road, a right turn. Hoffman Road crosses the Northway and climbs into the foothills, eventually reaching the trailhead 2.1 miles from town. It is located on the right, with room for about two or three cars to park.
The Trail
This trail follows an old woods road and provides an easy walk, as wilderness hikes go, beginning in a plantation of pine and ending in a native stand of hemlock. It is a perfect route for those people looking for a short, easy excursion through the woods, and the destination pond is a great place for a picnic or weekend backpacking trip.
The hike begins next to an old cellar hole hidden next to the parking area. The even-aged pine forest surrounding the start of the trail suggests that this was once a cleared farm. The trail leads to a wide bridge across a rather boisterous branch of Rogers Brook at the foot of a long beaver flow, where you will find some interesting cascades immediately downstream.
The trail then angles northwest through the rolling terrain between Big and North ponds. For the duration of this 1.7-mile hike, you will pass a wide variety of conifers, and so this is an excellent chance to brush up on your dendrology. White pine, Scotch pine, cedar, balsam fir, red spruce, and hemlock all grow beside the trail. Can you identify them?
Just short of an hour, the trail enters a tall hemlock stand with Big Pond becoming visible to the left. At 1.6 miles, after rising over and descending a hemlock-clad knoll, you reach a junction with a side trail bearing left. The blue trail continuing straight ahead winds into the headwater region of Trout Brook, but the left trail leads in just 0.1 mile to a well-situated campsite perched above a pebbly beach. It is the ideal picnic spot, especially since it faces into the sun and overlooks most of this wild pond.
Side Trips
The hike to Big Pond is fine for people who enjoy easy hikes or are short for time, but a quick glance at a map shows other options exist nearby as well.
The new section of the North Country National Scenic Trail leading over Jones Hill is mostly cut and ready to explore, though as of this writing it is not signed or marked. It passes south of North Pond – with its fine views of Hoffman Mountain – and then circles through the foothills to flank Jones Hill from the west. After a quick climb, the trail-to-be follows the ridgeline to what has already become a favorite summit view for local hikers.
Backing up to the beaver flow on the unnamed Rogers Brook tributary, you can bushwhack along the north bank to glimpse one of the most active heron rookeries in the area. And if you are persistent enough to circumvent all these wetlands, the south shore of Big Pond features a hidden campsite with photogenic views of Hoffman and its range of fellow mountains. Just beware of ticks lurking in the leaf litter.
Bill Ingersoll is a cofounder and the vice-chair of Adirondack Wilderness Advocates. For more information on this area, please visit: adirondackwilderness.org/hoffman-notch-wilderness.