Puffer Pond Loop and the North Country National Scenic Trail

By Rich Macha

Located in the northwestern part of the Siamese Ponds Wilderness, not far from the hamlet of Indian Lake in the central Adirondacks, Puffer Pond makes for a delightful destination in any season. The trails in this area can be of interest to cross-country skiers as well as to hikers and backpackers, so it wasn’t too difficult to persuade a longtime cross-country ski buddy, Dave Loux, to accompany me for a day hike from Kings Flow to the pond early this summer.

Our plan was to make a loop involving the Puffer Pond, Puffer Pond Brook, and Kings Flow East Trails. Until recently, the latter two trails were unmarked. In a 2017 Amendment to the wilderness area’s Unit Management Plan, the state decided to mark and maintain these trails to make them official. Back in the late 20th century, somebody, I’m not sure who, maintained these wide trails over old roads which made for a wonderful cross-country ski route to the pond and beyond. However, that maintenance ceased for many years, and the last time I skied them there was a lot of blowdown across the trails.

To get to the trailhead, you drive on Big Brook Road to its southern terminus at the north end of Kings Flow (elevation 1,709 feet) – a “flow” is a pond or lake that is created by damming a stream or river. The trailhead is on private land – the Cabins at Chimney Mountain are located here – currently there is a $5 fee to park. A trail register kiosk is found across a field. Facing the kiosk, a trail to Chimney Mountain heads to left and the Puffer Pond Trail is around to the right.  

After walking 0.3 miles from the kiosk, we exited private land and entered state land while a thrush sung sweetly in the woods. Soon after, there was a small pond on the right where beavers had dammed up Carroll Brook and made it their home. We spotted a doe and fawn on the other side of the brook. The narrow trail crossed Carroll Brook a bit further upstream and started climbing moderately. A junction with the crossover trail to John Pond was passed before the trail topped out after gaining 650 feet from the start. The trail then dropped a quick 150 feet to a junction before the pond (elevation 2,185 feet) – a right turn soon led to a lean-to and the Puffer Pond Brook Trail, and the left turn is the route to Old Farm Clearing – both ways are part of the North Country National Scenic Trail.

The North Country National Scenic Trail, often referred to as the North Country Trail or NCT in the interest of brevity, is a 4,800-mile trail that goes from Vermont to North Dakota. Construction of the trail is still in progress and that is also true of the planned 158-mile route that goes through the Adirondack Park. In addition to DEC trail markers, you will find NCT markers along the trail from the southern end of Kings Flow, past Puffer Pond, over to the Botheration Brook, Halfway Brook, and Raymond Brook Trails.

Near the lean-to there is a good view across the pond to trailless Puffer Mountain, which rises 1,300 feet above the water. I always enjoy reading about other adventurers’ experiences in the logbooks found in most lean-tos and I was somewhat surprised to read that several folks had already passed through this spring while working on traversing the NCT. Loons have been seen on the pond but we had no luck in that department on this day. Swimmers have reported a mucky bottom, plus the fact that we saw a snapping turtle could be discouraging to those who would like to become “one-with-the-water.”

After lunch, we walked east for 0.2 miles and took a right on a path which led to the eastern lean-to. This lean-to was in poor shape as it leaned over somewhat, had a large hole in the overhang, and reportedly leaked whenever it rained. Originally, the state was going to remove it entirely, but now has decided to eventually repair it and set it back further away from the water. The view from the water’s edge is, and always will be, lovely.

We returned back past the western lean-to and headed west on the Puffer Pond Brook Trail, which followed the edge of the pond then picked up and paralleled the pond’s outlet. This 1.9-mile trail loses 400 feet of elevation between the pond and Kings Flow – an enjoyable hike past many lovely cascades and a joy on skis when the time comes. A large white pine had a small plaque on it commemorating Major Abbot L. Wiley, a WWII combat veteran. After walking 1.5 miles from the lean-to, the red DEC trail bears left and crosses the brook – the NCT also follows that route on its way toward Speculator. At this point, we bore right on a blue-marked trail which, after stepping over the only blowdown we found on our route, soon arrived at the flow.

We headed north on the 1.1-mile Kings Flow East Trail with occasional sightings of the flow – you may have to bushwhack a short distance for a better look. An osprey flew over the flow as we passed by. Crossing Carroll Brook looked like it could be challenging in high water but, even though it had rained overnight, we were able rock-hop across without getting our feet wet. Soon after, we were back on private land for the last 0.5-mile to the car.

Our mileage for the day, with a bit of poking around, was a little over six miles. Folks wishing for more could add another 2.5 miles (and almost 1,000 feet of elevation) by hiking up Chimney Mountain, whose summit has a 360-degree view as well as some interesting caves and a stone “chimney” below the top to explore. Personally, I am looking forward to return in winter.      

A lover of wild places, Rich Macha has led many trips for the Adirondack Mountain Club, and has spent 20 years in the paddlesport/snowsport business. More of Rich’s adventures can be found at northeastwild.blogspot.com.