Lake Lila Revisited

By Rich Macha

Although it takes a little effort to get there, Lake Lila is, without a doubt, one of the Adirondack Park’s premier paddling destinations. All of the lake’s shoreline is state land and it is now part of the William C. Whitney Wilderness, which also includes Little Tupper Lake, where motors are not allowed. The nearest paved road is a distant few miles away and the 1,400-acre lake offers 23 primitive tent sites and one lean-to for those staying overnight.

I have visited Lake Lila at least a dozen times since the state purchased the area in 1979, including through-trips from Little Tupper Lake to Lila, and Lila to the Oswegatchie River via Lows Lake. But over five Lila-less years had elapsed without a visit, so a small group of us got together and headed up that way in late September of 2021. Some of my companions were first-timers and we had given ourselves just two days to explore, so we only had time to hit the area’s highlights.

After driving past Little Tupper Lake, we turned left for a half-hour drive on a seasonal 5.6-mile dirt road which was a little bumpy but passable by most passenger vehicles when driven with care. There were 20 cars, and still plenty of room for more, in the parking area so it was doubtful that we would find any of my favorite sandy-beach campsites unoccupied. The dirt road continues past the parking area but is private – you are allowed to hike it but not drive it.

From the parking area, it is a mostly downhill 0.3-mile carry (in the Adirondacks, portages are called carries) to a lovely sand beach on the eastern end of the lake. If you go light, you may be able to get all your stuff to the lake in one trip – if you bring some extra comfort items, it will likely require two trips. The carry trail is somewhat rough, with exposed roots and rocks so carts do not work well.  

Once out on the relatively calm water, we soon passed Snell Island and checked out some of my favored campsites but, as I had surmised, they were all occupied. Paddling close to the north shore past Canada Island, we headed toward the west shore and found the lean-to site (site #7) empty so we moved in. It would serve as a convenient location from which to start our desired hike up Mount Frederica. An impressive tall white pine by the lakeshore stands admirably at this site.

While we were setting up camp, a vehicle went by on the private dirt road behind the lean-to – just a fleeting motor-moment before peacefulness was restored. We soon started out hiking south on that dirt road and took a right at a fork – a left would have led us to more campsites and the site of a former great camp which was removed when the state acquired the land. If you are camping elsewhere on the lake, you can paddle to a small beach between campsites #8 and #9 and follow the trail markers from there.

We soon crossed some railroad tracks – not used by trains for 40 years but that is scheduled to change in 2022. If we had followed the tracks to the right, we would have been able to check out what is left of the old Nehasane Station, which has sat in a state of disrepair for many years.

Continuing straight on the dirt road the marked trail soon makes a right turn off the road and climbs moderately toward the lookout on Mount Frederica. After topping out, a gain of 400 feet from the lake, the trail drops down to some ledges from which gorgeous views extend over the lake to the High Peaks in the far distance – this is a great spot to linger.

It was an easy 1.7-mile hike back down to the lean-to. Clouds rolled in before sunset but things opened up again after dark to reveal starry skies. The east-facing campsites along the west shore are great for viewing the sunrise and, from the lean-to, I did not even have to get out of my sleeping bag to view it. Waking to the sound of the distant wailing calls of loons was a bonus. Unfortunately, I did not actually see any of those loons on this trip – Lila has not been the most loony lake for me in general.  

After breakfast, I took a short walk and got water from a spring that is located across the dirt road from campsite #9, then packed up camp. We paddled south and passed little Mosquito Island and the start of the Beaver River. It is possible to paddle down the Beaver for about a mile before reaching rocky rapids and private land, but we had other plans for this day.

The wind was picking up as we passed around the south side of Buck Island, into the large southeastern bay, and across to the mouth of Shingle Shanty Brook, the lake’s primary inlet, which was somewhat hidden by grasses in the water. As we headed up this meandering stream, we had to lift over three small beaver dams within the first mile. After that, it was clear sailing with no obstructions for over 1.5 miles to the edge of private land and the start of the carry to Lilypad Pond.

The 2.6-mile return to the lake was aided by a light current. The pink flowers of smartweed growing in the water added some color along the way. In summer, you will see plenty of purple-flowered pickerelweed and, if you are lucky, you may be able to spot a bittern or two – hiding incognito in the stream-side brush.

The wind had really picked up on the lake so we took a little snack break on a nearby beach before tackling a beam wind until we rounded a point across from Spruce Island and headed toward the put-in on over one-foot waves. We had paddled a satisfying 10-plus miles for the day. I made two trips back to the parking area with my stuff since it was generally uphill. Only 10 vehicles were still parked there. It has become a tradition for me to take a short swim from the beach before heading back to civilization and this day was no exception – it was a bit chilly but very refreshing nonetheless.     

If you go – Campsites on Lake Lila are first-come, first-served, so, especially on nice summer Saturdays, expect to spend some time finding an available site. Campsites have a limit of nine people and you will need to get a permit from the ranger before your trip if you would like to occupy the same site for more than three nights. You can find maps with campsite locations online or, even better, bring along a copy of the “Adirondack Paddler’s Map – Whitney Wilderness”, available for purchase from St. Regis Canoe Outfitters, Adirondack Lakes and Trails Outfitters, Mountainman Outdoors, Placid Boatworks, High Peaks Cyclery, and Black Dog Outdoor Sports. Before you leave, make sure your campfire is totally out and your campsite is litter-free.

A lover of wild places, Rich Macha has led many trips for the Adirondack Mountain Club, and has spent 20 years in the paddlesport/snowsport business. More of Rich’s adventures can be found at northeastwild.blogspot.com.