September 2021 / HIKING
Lake Andrew – The Reclaimed Wilderness
By Bill Ingersoll
Earlier this summer, I wrote in these pages about one of the lesser-known Finch Pruyn land purchases – a piece of the landmark Forest Preserve acquisition that dominated regional news from 2008 to 2018. Some of those parcels, such as the Essex Chain and Boreas Ponds, were the centerpieces of that deal, but indeed there were thousands of wild acres included in the wings.
One such was the MacIntyre West Tract, which opened to the public for the first time in late 2014. From that moment until September 2018 it existed in an odd interim state, a newly added part of the Forest Preserve but dotted with private hunting camps that stood on plots of ground leased from the former owner. Thus for a time it was possible to explore this tract and share it with the sporting clubs who once held exclusive domain here.
In 2018 “Mac West” was formally added to the High Peaks Wilderness, and by the end of the year the camps were removed. People might have mixed emotions about this – removing (depopulating?) a vibrant community of hunting camps to reclaim (manufacture?) the wilderness – but make no mistake, this is a significant piece of property. It lies at the foot of the Santanoni Range and features many outstanding views of those mountains. At its heart is Lake Andrew, a high-elevation pond embraced by mountains.
The hunting clubs had maintained an extensive network of trails, many of them used by snowmobiles. In my initial forays I thought this area had great potential for wilderness recreation, from skiing to backpacking. I still think that way, but based on my most recent visit (August 2021) I must report Mac West is still in an interim phase – though of a different kind.
The property is fully open to the public and is a wilderness tract in good standing. The cabin sites were cleaned up remarkably well, although a few more seasons of regrowth will be needed to soften some of the edges, so to speak.
However, there are no marked trails, no signs, nothing to make the place easy to navigate. This is fine for the backpacker (like myself) looking for a weekend of solitude, but odd for the Adirondack Park’s most popular wilderness. Additionally, the main haul roads that once led to the camps – and which are the most obvious foot trails today – were deliberately mutilated upon abandonment, making them a somewhat awkward hiking experience – and impossible to ski.
I am excited about Mac West, which is why I’m writing about it; someday, state trails may allow the average hiker to traverse the property all the way to Newcomb Lake, or to reach the foot of the Twin Slides on Santanoni Peak. Until then, Lake Andrew makes the most obvious destination for anyone eager to explore this new addition to the wilderness. This route poses a few navigational challenges, but it lies at the right distance for an enjoyable day hike.
Getting There – From Northway Exit 29, drive west on Blue Ridge Road (also called Boreas Road) for 17 miles to the right turn for Tahawus. Follow this road, County Route 25, to a fork at 6.3 miles. Turn left and continue to the Bradley Pond / Santanoni parking area on the left at 8.2 miles.
The Trail – The beginning of this route should be familiar to anyone who has hiked the Santanoni Range. From the Bradley Pond Trailhead, follow the main trail westward along an obvious road. This part is very well used and easy to follow. At 1.1 miles it dips through an open wetland where you might be able to steal a glimpse of distant Wallface Mountain to the northeast, and at 1.7 miles you reach a junction. Here, signs point right toward the Santanoni Lean-To and Bradley Pond; and because this is also the main route up the range, nearly all foot traffic makes this turn.
To reach Lake Andrew, you will need to be a maverick and keep heading west along the road. Just minutes past the junction you reach a bridge over a large stream—let’s call it the “South Branch Santanoni Brook” for descriptive purposes. A sign here discourages the public from proceeding past this point, but that sign is now obsolete. Cross the bridge and moments later enter the MacIntyre West Tract.
Currently, the only thing marking the boundary at 2.1 miles is a ditch dug across the road, flanked by a mound of dirt. Another such feature can be seen just up the road. And another, and another. Some of these “digs” are where culverts were ripped out to restore natural stream flow, but most (I think) were just deliberate efforts to make this road look less like a road. Get used to them, because there are dozens frequently placed along the entire length of the road.
At 2.2 miles a side road bears right, uphill. Keep left on the main road, which follows the South Branch quite closely. You pass the first of the small cabin sites, followed by a small meadow on the brook. A long climb leads away from the brook on what had promised to be Mac West’s best ski run, but the frequent ditching eliminates that possibility.
At the top of the hill is a high shelf of land once populated by numerous camps, now empty clearings that still seem to have good camping potential. (Important note: there are no designated campsites here.) In the midst of all this is an alder swale, which you reach at 3.4 miles. The culvert is gone, so now you have to cut through the brush north of the road to ford the stream on a gravel bar.
Maps show that this is an area studded with small wetlands and beaver ponds, and further exploration reveals several artificial clearings occupied by private camps. I like to call this section the “Santanoni Meadows,” for nearly all of these openings reveal their own intimate views of nearby Santanoni Peak. At this point you are practically at the mountain’s foot.
Just past the alder swale, turn left (south) onto another prominent road, which was also dug up. This one swings southeast through the “Santanoni Meadows” and past the last of the cabin sites. The hardened road ends 0.4 mile from the junction, or 3.8 miles from the start, at the side of a small beaver pond.
This is the point where your route becomes a trail, although the transition will likely be confusing for some people. Do not continue straight from the end of the road, but look for a route that bears slightly right into the woods. The beginning is not immediately obvious, but what you’re looking for is a former ATV/snowmobile trail leading to a decrepit footbridge. Once identified, the continuing trail should be reasonably easy to follow for experienced hikers.
The route passes yet another open meadow and splits into right and left forks. Both go to the same place; the trail follows a braided course as it climbs into a notch at the foot of Mount Andrew. After the two main forks reunite on high ground, the route becomes a wet-but-obvious old logging road leading south through the notch. Lake Andrew appears through the trees to your left, and if you stick with the trail a moment longer, a side trail at 4.4 miles leads left down to the shoreline where a derelict dock can still be found.
From this spot you can see most of the small lake, with Mount Andrew rising above it. This is not Lake Andrew’s best side, however. If you are willing to conquer the most challenging navigation problems yet, then keep following the main trail south, past the lake. As it begins to descend, look closely for a side trail leading left; it should lead to a small bridge over the outlet stream, and then hook back northeast toward the lake’s south shore.
This part of the trail was still obvious in August 2021, although it is menaced by encroaching brush. Look for a charming campsite at the southernmost tip of Lake Andrew (pretty spot, lumpy ground) but continue to a T-junction where a left turn leads to the most scenic view of all at 5.1 miles. The site itself needs time to heal – a collapsed cabin once rotted here – but from a shoreline rock you can enjoy your scenic prize: the view of slide-scarred Santanoni Mountain.
Bill Ingersoll (hikerbill30@msn.com) of Barneveld is a co-founder and the vice-chair of Adirondack Wilderness Advocates. For more info on this area, please visit adirondackwilderness.org/high-peaks-wilderness.