High Peaks Wilderness from Upper Works

By Rich Macha

The trailhead at Upper Works is the most popular access to the High Peaks from the south, however, it is nowhere near as busy as most access points are from the north. The trailhead is reached after a scenic ten-mile drive north of Newcomb on County Route 25. Before reaching the parking area at the end of the road, the route passes remnants of historic iron and titanium mining activity, including a blast furnace at the former community of Adirondac. The Open Space Institute owns the parking and furnace areas and, over the next year, plans to expand the parking area as well as preserve some of the area’s history.  

The Indian Pass Trail heads north from the trailhead and other trails fan out from it to the west and east to destinations such as Duck Hole, Flowed Lands, Mount Marcy, and many other peaks. The mountain scenery is outstanding and the area does get more than its fair share of snow. I have skied many of these trails over the years and reexplored them in February 2019 when there was about three to four feet of snow on the ground. On a sunny winter weekend, the parking lot can fill up but can be deserted on a weekday.

INDIAN PASS TRAIL

The start of the wide trail is on an old logging road – the beginning of the Hudson River, a rocky stream at this point, is crossed on a good bridge at the 0.2-mile mark. Soon after, a short spur to the left leads to a spot above the dam on Henderson Lake. Continuing north, the Indian Pass Trail is washed-out in spots and was not fun to ski. In retrospect, it is easier and much more scenic to ski along Henderson Lake, and rejoin the trail at the northeastern end of the lake.

The Henderson Lean-To is passed at 1.7 miles, and soon after the trail turns to cross Indian Pass Brook on a bridge. Last winter, the snow was piled three to four feet deep and narrow on top – none of the group risked skiing across and we all dropped onto the brook and skied across on solid ice and snow.

Soon after the bridge, the narrow, twisty trail goes up and over a hill before coming out near the brook again. A short spur to the left leads to the Wallface Lean-To at the 2.7-mile mark. The trail was then fairly level except for a few dips in and out of small frozen streams. Glimpses of Wallface’s almost 1,000-foot cliff came into view. The trail crosses Indian Pass Brook at 3.9 miles, then climbs 500 feet in 0.5 miles to Summit Rock. It’s too steep for skis, so we decided to climb off-trail toward the foot of the cliff, to a lunch spot at 2,300 feet elevation.

On the way out, we skied out onto Henderson Lake and enjoyed the mountain views under a cobalt blue sky. Be sure to check out the icefall on the lake’s east shore, and as you turn toward the dam, there is an awesome view of Mount Colden. Then, turn around to get a look at Santanoni Peak rising up behind the shoulder of Henderson Mountain.

DUCK HOLE

The route to Duck Hole via Henderson Lake and the Preston Ponds is resplendent with mountain views. Ski to the northwest end of Henderson Lake and pick up a path to the right of a cascading inlet. A lean-to is seen to the right – this one was erected while the land was owned by Open Space Institute so it is a bit different than the typical NYSDEC lean-tos. Past the lean-to, you pick-up the red trail to Duck Hole. At first, the terrain is rolling but after about a mile the trail makes a long uphill climb, gaining 370 feet, before dropping slightly. On the return, I have found it better to ski downhill off-trail a little north of the actual trail – the woods are open and you can pick a slightly gentler route.

A little before reaching Upper Preston Pond, the trail makes a right turn. Skiers should continue straight and ski out onto the pond. After passing by a point, a cabin can be seen on the south shore – Open Space Institute still owns the cabin plus a small parcel of land around it.

At the far end of the Upper Pond, to the left of the outlet, an unmarked path soon leads in 100 yards to Lower Preston Pond. Out on the pond, there are views toward the Seward and Sawteeth ranges. Ski to the west and find the outlet behind an island. If the outlet is frozen over you may be able to ski along it, otherwise, find a path to the right of the outlet. Look for a path to the left of the outlet and ski that down to Duck Hole. Cross the pond to the lean-tos for a deserved break before making the trip back.

It took me three attempts before I finally made it as far as Duck Hole on skis – I suggest an early start, especially if you have never been there before. However, a shorter ski trip to either of the Preston Ponds is rewarding in itself.

FLOWED LANDS

The Calamity Brook Trail leaves the Indian Pass Trail 0.4 miles from the Upper Works trailhead. After some ups and downs through a logged-over area, the route goes generally uphill, gaining almost 1,000 feet in 4.6 miles before reaching Flowed Lands. Again, the mountain views are outstanding and there are several lean-tos to choose from for a scenic lunch stop.

Most often, I have skied the Calamity Brook Trail on through trips from the north via Avalanche Pass. Coming down from Flowed Lands there are some nice cruising sections with gentle to moderate curves. I only remember one steep section that needed a fair amount of caution as a rock or two were showing.  Many years ago, I was barreling down too fast for my skills to make a sharp turn and felt a fall was inevitable, so I closed my eyes, and when I opened them a few seconds after making the turn I was still upright – sometimes you get lucky!

An up-and-back trip allows the skier the opportunity to take in the scenery while skiing slowly uphill – on the downhill, you have to pay attention to the skiing and not-so-much the scenery.  

In conclusion, the south side of the High Peaks Wilderness has much to offer the intermediate or better skier, while novices can enjoy the breathtaking views with an easy ski around Henderson Lake.

A lover of wild places, Rich Macha has led many trips for the Adirondack Mountain Club, and has spent 20 years in the paddlesport/snowsport business. More of Rich’s adventures can be found at northeastwild.blogspot.com.