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Backcountry Bonanza

Skiing the Siamese Ponds Wilderness
by Dick Carlson
Published: February 2010

We were skiing through boot deep powder, negotiating a little known ski route in the Siamese Ponds wilderness. Most of the other more popular trails in the area were hard-packed powder. So, this was a real bonus. There off to our left, coming into view was Gore Mountain, one of New York’s great alpine ski venues. The contrast to me was striking – 5,000 people were skiing right over there, right now, and we were on a wilderness ski tour just a few miles away probably sharing 100,000 acres with a handful of people and all the other locals – deer, coyote, bobcat, snoozing bears, and flocks of chickadees and blue jays. As another writer called it, we were ‘enjoying the soothing white loneliness.’

The best Adirondack ski routes are spread through out the Adirondack Park, some in the High Peaks area, others in the western or southern Adirondacks. But, increasingly a backcountry ski mecca of sorts has developed in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness Area. Thanks to a dedicated group of trail improvement volunteers under the direction, guidance and diligence of NYS Forest Ranger Steve Ovitt, many routes, loops, and trails contribute to this cadre of wilderness ski adventures.

The Siamese Ponds Wilderness Area is located near Gore Mountain, and is loosely bounded by NY routes 8, 28 and 30. It is contained in the hamlets of Bakers Mills, North Creek and North River in the town of Johnsburg, Warren County, and towns of Indian Lake, Wells, Lake Pleasant and Speculator in Hamilton County. The wilderness area is over 113,000 acres of wilderness with over 40 miles of mapped and marked trails. Additional bushwhacking routes make this an almost endless canvas for winter ski adventure. Many of the views from Gore to the west overlook this vast wilderness area.

Many of the ski routes in Siamese Ponds have existed for years. However, new bridges constructed in the past three years have opened up many trails that formerly had to rely on shaky and unreliable ice bridges. While there are almost endless ski tours in wilderness area, here are three of the most popular.

The Botheration Pond Loop – This trek begins and ends at the Old Farm Road trailhead, just off Thirteenth Lake Road in North River, about nine miles from North Creek. Looking at the loop on a map you can ski it clockwise or counterclockwise. This route is about eight miles in length and usually is an intermediate skills ski trip. Highlights include two bridges over Botheration Brook (aka East Branch of the Sacandaga River), and great views of Gore Mountain – ski directly onto Botheration Pond (if safe) for the best view. A leisurely ski time is about four hours.

Ski Tour to Route 8 – This has always been the signature ski trip in Siamese Ponds. It is long at 11 miles, has some formidable uphills, and a few tricky stream crossings. But it gets skiers into the heart of the wilderness with great views and sporty downhills. It is also access to the Siamese Ponds. While there are advocates for skiing in one direction or another, most skiers will opt to ski from the Old Farm Road trailhead and end at the trailhead on Route 8, just outside the hamlet of Bakers Mills. Allow all day for this ski, six hours or more. You will need to position a car at the Route 8 trailhead or arrange for a ride back. For a great route description, check out Tony Goodwin’s excellent guidebook Classic Adirondack Ski Tours (ADK).

Raymond Brook Trail – This is technically not in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness Area, but it is connected to the trails originating from the Old Farm Road trailhead and is the ski tour most favored by gravity junkies. Raymond Brook is one of the original ‘ride up, slide down’ trails popular with skiers in the 1930s and 40s. Skiers will even pass one of the original rescue sled shacks on the way down. The trailheads for Raymond Brook are located on the upper end of Barton Mines Road in North River, and a new parking lot on Route 28 just outside of North Creek as the lower terminus. The ski is about 4.5 miles long with some great downhills. Combine this with a portion of the Botheration Loop trail for an all day adventure. Again two cars will be required. An added spur of the Raymond Brook Trail will also bring skiers all the way to the North Creek Ski Bowl.

More Siamese Ponds adventures: Peaked Mountain – Mostly a snowshoe trek, but skiers can readily make it to Peaked Mountain Pond with some great views. Hour Pond Loop – A new spur from the Peaked Mountain trail and a new bridge make this a great loop with sweet downhills. Thirteenth Lake – Combine some of these routes with a beginning or ending on Thirteenth Lake. Balm of Gilead Mountain – The best view for the least amount of work in the Adirondacks! It is mostly a snowshoe trip, but good skiers can ski up and down. Hooper Mine – Much is the same for this inactive mine; steep uphill then connect to William Blake Pond or the reverse. Another trailhead for Siamese Ponds Wilderness Area is available near Indian Lake at the end of Big Brook Road at Kings Flow. This is access to Chimney Mountain, Johns Pond and the ski back to North River via the Puffer Pond trail. For winter campers there are many lean-to camps for multiple day trips.

Don’t forget, backcountry skiing is serious stuff. Being stuck many miles from a trailhead with an injury or broken equipment can quickly turn into a disaster. Everyone should have eye protection, extra gloves, socks, warmer clothes, water, food and a headlamp. Someone in the group should have a first aid kit, ski and pole repair materials, ski wax, minimal bivouac materials, matches, area map and compass. Don’t bite off more of a trip than you are able. No backcountry skiing is rated for true beginner skiers. It is also rare that light touring equipment is appropriate except for accomplished skiers in good snow conditions. Most importantly, upgrade your equipment to backcountry skis, boots, bindings and poles.

Snow and trail conditions: Check with the folks at Garnet Hill Lodge Cross-Country Ski Center, which is adjacent to the Old Farm trailhead. Garnet Hill is also a resource for backcountry ski rentals and area ski guide service. Feel free to contact me for more details, guide recommendations or current trail conditions.

Dick Carlson (diccarlson@frontiernet.net) of North River is president of Cross-Country Ski Areas of New York.